How To Get Better Gas Mileage For The Money

The quest for better gas mileage is something that every mechanic is involved in at one time or another. Miles per gallon make an excellent topic with soaring gas prices. In this era of strict traffic enforcement, exploits of how fast your car will go are out of date. With foreign cars and their miserly gas appetites, mileage will provide the more stimulating bar room topic.

The condition of your engine can vitally affect your gas mileage. To tune an engine to its peak efficiency is only half the gas mileage battle. Factors such as car frontal area (bigger cars get poorer mileage than small cars), car weight, body shape and finish affect mileage. The best way to get good mileage is to tune your motor to factory specs and then check out all of the small things we list in this article. Without a good tune-up, attempting to get good gas mileage is like wishing for a 50 beer—it ain't about to happen. A dirty air cleaner can cut mileage by 10%. One misfiring spark plug can cut mileage by 10%. A stuck or inoperative choke can cut mileage by 30%.

After the engine is tuned up, here are some of the tricks used by professional drivers to get more miles per gallon. Open up the spark plug to about .010 more than factory specs. With new plugs and points you should be able to get away with this if you don't demand flatout drag strip acceleration. Use a high octane gasoline and advance your ignition timing to take advantage of the gas. Advance the timing in steps of 2 degrees at a time. Each time you advance the timing, road test the car to see if it starts easily and if it pings. If it pings or knocks the timing should be backed off. A rough way to test if your timing is too far advanced is to drive at about 40 mph on a level road with the engine at operating temperature. Now put the gas pedal to the floor and listen for pinging. If you don't hear any pings you are okay. If you hear any, you had better hack off on the timing unless you want collapsed pistons.

Do not exceed 6 degrees advance over that recommended by the factory as the risk is not worth the mileage improvement. If you are super fastidious and really want to do the job in timing the car for maximum mileage you could rig up a hook up that would let you advance the timing by hand from inside the car. The old Fords had such a device and some motorcycles still have them. What you do in a case like this is to give as much spark advance as the engine will handle at the throttle opening that you are running with. A choke cable can be used to make a setup like this or you can recalibrate yur distributor automatic advance for more mileage. Remember though that maximum mileage and top performance do not go hand in hand. You can't have your cake and eat it too!

Using a higher temperature thermostat will help improve engine efficiency and give better mileage. If your cooling system is in good shape and the pressure cap is working okay. use a 180 to 195 degree thermostat. Another good trick is to use a lightweight oil or a multigrade oil. 10W-30 motor oil is pretty hard to beat for all-around use. 95% of all cars on the road can use this type lubricant with excellent results. By using the lighter oil the engine can warm up more quickly and run with less internal friction. Heavy oil causes a drag on motor parts that wastes power. It would open the eyes of many mechanics if they could see how many dragster drivers use 20W oil in their engines even during the summer. These guys are out for maximum power and minimum friction and they know that a light oil is the way to get it.

A good low back pressure exhaust system will do wonders for mileage. At one time there was a lot of trash written about the good effects of back pressure and why motors needed restrictive exhaust systems. This is simply not so. The only reason for a restrictive exhaust system is that some scrounge at the factory was out to save a few bucks. Dual exhausts with non-restrictive mufflers are the minimum. Even better is a good set of tubular headers. A real bad guy in the exhaust system, like a stuck heat riser valve in one of the exhaust manifolds, can cause a lot of grief. Make sure that the heat riser valve is operating freely. If it's stuck you can try to get it free with a bath of kerosene. Chip off any slag or corrosion that may be holding the heat riser in a stuck position. Graphite is a great lubricant for heat riser valves. Now that we have played the game of gas mileage and got the engine where it will start on a sniff of gas and run all week on a pint of petrol what do we do when we actually drive the car?

No matter how great the engine is tuned and "tricked" into being super efficient, it still has to push around the car. All sorts of things are against your getting the mileage that the car is capable of giving. By not shifting quickly enough you waste gas. If you could be in high gear and instead are in first it costs you 30 to 55% more fuel; in second gear rather then high will cost you 15 to 20% more fuel. Can you think of a better reason to shift?

Underinflated tires will kill mileage. Mileage tricksters often jump tire pressure up to 35 psi cold, This will give you a few more miles per gallon and if your tires are in good shape it won't do any harm to them at all. Dragging brakes that are not adjusted properly will eat up gas. Bad or improperly lubricated wheel bearings cost mileage. If your wheels are out of alignment this will cost you mileage as the car is not rolling straight and is dragging and scuffling the tires. Heavy grease in the transmission or rear end will hurt mileage, especially in cold weather. Highly volatile gasolines that are needed for fast starts in the winter won't give as good mileage as summer gasoline blends. Excessive fuel pump pressure will waste gas. Power equipment such as power steering and air conditioning are gas hogs. Such power equipment must be turned with the engine and this parasite drag uses gasoline. If you were willing to build up gorilla like arms and drive in your underwear you could disconnect the power steering and air conditioning and get better mileage.

A simple thing like idle speed can cause significant changes in gas mileage. The idle should be set as low as Possible without causing the car to stall. Stomping the gas pedal costs mileage as the accelerator pump shoots in gas to give the engine a power boost. Some people will disconnect the accelerator pump to get more mileage. This is okay unless you have an emergency situation where you have to move out. At a point like that you may decide that you would like to have the power back even though it costs you about 14 mile per gallon. Heavy traffic and stop-and-go traffic also eat up gas mileage. Naturally any leaks in the fuel line, carb or fuel pump will give you less mileage since some of the gas won't even make it to the engine. No brand of gasoline will show a significant mileage increase over any other brand of gas. Gasolines vary but the variations are more in respect to climatic and regional conditions than to gas blends.

If the ignition is adjusted properly, higher octane fuels will give more miles per gallon. You can figure that all major brands of premium gasoline have about the same mileage potential. The gasolines are so much alike that only a lab can tell them apart. An extra stop for a traffic light will affect your mileage more than the difference between brands. if you really want mileage get an old light Studebaker six with overdrive. Rebuild the engine using loose clearances and raise the compression, put on tubular headers, recalibrate the spark advance curves, put on small slim tires with 85 psi of air in them, use Vaseline on the wheel bearings, back off the brake adjustments, strip off the chrome, mirror and aerial, remove the fan blade, disconnect the generator, lean out the carb, remove the air cleaner, close all the windows and drive with the wind at your back. If you do this I'm sure that you will trounce any car for mileage. Do you think it's worth the trouble?

How To Repair Rust Holes In Cars

Most cars rust out eventually and in the most inconvenient places like on the door sill or the bottom of the rear window or under the floor matting. Unlike rocker panel rustouts where a replacement panel can be fitted, the aforementioned places don't lend themselves to parts replacement within the economic worth of the vehicle. Under these conditions fiber glass patching often can do the job, adding years to the life of a good running older vehicle. The reinforced plastics industry through its has come up with some practical suggestions. First step in patching is to ascertain the extent of rustout. You must clear away the rust all the way back to good metal with a small hammer and a sander. Sometimes you'll find that what is now only a tiny rust hole in appearance is in reality a huge area where the paint and primer are all that's left.

In other cases, the rust is only on the surface and can be ground away. Once you have gotten back to good metal you can assess the job ahead of you. Try to see the area to be patched from both sides if that is possible. If the rustout area is more than three inches in any direction, you need a backup plate of cardboard or light aluminum. Allow a healthy overlap. If you can, work it from the inside, taping or otherwise affixing the backup plate to the underside of the repair area. If the rust is in a box section or hat section, it often pays to stuff the area with the kind of fiber glass batting used in house insulation. It acts as insulation and sound proofing and also reduces the possibility of water getting back down to continue metal oxidation.

There are fiber glass patch kits which come with everything needed to repair a car. If these are unavailable in your area, get a boat repair kit, or buy fiber glass cloth, resin, catalyst and filler separately. Roughen the surface of the paint around the hole, feathering out to where the paint must blend in. Some people also apply a coat of primer to help get a better bond. Tailor your glass cloth patch to the shape of the hole remembering to overlap the edges of the patch onto good metal. If this is a small repair (two or three inches), it usually can be done with a single piece of glass cloth. This glass cloth is then impregnated with resin, allowed to dry partially, then built up slightly above the surrounding metal with filler so contours can be restored by sanding down when the patch hardens.

Fiber glass Cloth is especially valuable where you are repairing a gas tank or muffler or a whole floor area. Because no heat is needed in fiber glass repairs, the chance of explosion or oven fire from residual gas fumes is eliminated. Simply clean the area to be covered and apply the glass cloth, taking care to overlap the edges. (Wrap mufflers all the way around.) The next step is to thoroughly saturate the fiber glass cloth with the resin mix. Cover the patch with cellophane or polyethylene film and squeeze out wrinkles and air bubbles. Let the repair cure to a rubbery state (about 15 minutes), then remove the film and apply another layer of impregnated cloth if you need the strength. Fill any irregularities after removing the cellophane. Then sand to contour and buff after the surface is hard. Customizing, like removing chrome trim, modifying fender extenders or even extending contours also can be done.

One warning: unless the temperature is at least 70 degrees F. on the repair surface, the fiber glass/resin won't cure. Use an infra red lamp in that case.

Tips:
1. To learn how bad body damage really is, you must first remove all rust on surface. 
2. Use sander to grind down to good metal after hammering most of rust from surface. Check both sides.
3. Roughen paint surface around hole then apply primer for tighter bond on surface.
4. Overlap edges of fiber glass patch onto good metal using lamp below 70 degrees F.
5. After resin-impregnated fiber glass dries, sand until smooth. 
6. If done properly, it should be almost impossible to see where repair work was done.

Growing a Herb Garden

There is a special satisfaction in an herb garden. The concept is as traditional as the earliest gardens, and herbs make good friends in the ground and in the kitchen. By precise definition the term includes all plants which die to the ground but in practice the term covers those used only for flavoring, scent and medicinal purposes: some fifty plants from anise and basil to lavender and rosemary. If you've raised flowers or vegetables, you can grow herbs. Most require little in the way of special soil or care. And although the common species prefer a slightly alkaline soil, a sandy loam for example, all will lay aside preferences to grow well in a variety of areas. 

Special fertilizing is almost never required (in fact many herbs become woody and strong-tasting with over-feeding). The only thing they do need is plenty of sun. Choose a plot well drenched with sun since most of the plants are native to the Mediterranean and need an abundant sun to make them sweet and flavorful. Some of the leafy herbs have surprisingly small seeds. and are best started in special pans or flats to be transplanted in six or eight weeks. Seed-bearing herbs usually have larger seeds and may be sown directly to the garden in the early spring. 

The herbs should he thinned as soon as they show and eventually grown six to twelve inches apart. Annuals can be planted from seed and perennials can be propagated by layering, cutting, or even division. Many herb gardeners start perennial herbs under glass early in spring, transplanting about eight weeks later in late May or early June. Tender perennials, such as rosemary and sweet marjoram must be grown as annuals in northern regions, but some annuals (anise, caraway, dill, and sweet marjoram are examples) have been grown successfully as winter crops in the southwestern states. 

An ordinary seed packet is sufficient for most gardens. Economy-priced "trade packets" contain several times as much seed and are excellent for large gardens. Two or three plants of the popular herbs may be enough for family use. A 10 or 15 sq. ft garden should be adequate. A separate plot is not necessary: perennial herbs may be planted in a perennial bed or border, annual types among flowers or vegetables. Even an ordinary window box or flower pots will supply useful quantities of herbs. 

Parsley, chives, pot marjoram, rosemary, thyme, mint, savory, tarragon do well indoors. However, if you go in for herbs in a big way, you can grow an ample supply in a small plot. Twenty herbs in rows spaced four feet apart can fit in a space 24 x 28. Rows spaced 3 feet apart will also be adequate and take up less room. Keep in mind that tall herbs should be located north of shorter ones to avoid shading. The design of an herb garden is traditional, commonly square or rectangular and formal. There are sound reasons for the choice. No other plants require such individual consideration. Herbs must be arranged so their textures and colors show well and plants should never be crowded. 

It is important to be able to reach individual varieties as they mature. Begin by spading the area deeply. The soil itself should be friable, that is neither hard or water logged, and the finished garden should be well-drained and not too rich. If you want quick growth, buy nursery plants but if you are in no hurry, try seeds. The order of the garden is not important and you can follow, in general, your inclinations but one plant does require a special consideration: mint. If you have an es-pecially moist place, say a plot near a garden faucet, put mint there. But watch! Mint will send out runners and may take over in time. Harvesting herbs. Fresh clippings can be taken from plants every two or three weeks, from the time the new growth becomes usable in June until the last tender growth in October. 

Remove all new growth that may he pinched off easily (from 3 to 5 in. long). Many of the herbs should be ready for a harvesting by fall. Leafy herbs are ready from the time flower buds begin to form until flowers are half open. The only exceptions are parsley, which can be cut anytime, and sage and tarragon, which should be cut when buds first appear. Cut herbs for drying early in the day after dew has dried on foliage but before the sun becomes hot--the oil content of leaves is highest then. Shear annual herbs to about 4 inches from the ground: cut perennials only by one-third. Tie woody-stemmed herbs such as sweet marjoram and thyme in small bundles, then hang upside down in a warm, dark place. If your drying area is light, wrap each bundle with a cylinder of paper to preserve color. 

Dry large leafed herbs like basil on top of a screen covered tray. When leaves are crumbly (after good ventilation and low humidity) store in air-tight containers until ready to use. Check containers the first few days after filling to make sure moisture doesn't form inside. If it does, herbs need more drying. Strip the leaves by hand, discarding the stems. Crumble the leaves by rubbing through a coarse screen or grinding in a commercial 1-cup mincer used for chopping nuts. Sage leaves may not respond to screening and may become gummed up in a meat grinder. We use a second-hand electric coffee grinder or blender for this herb only. Harvesting and drying seeds (anise, caraway and dill) requires a different procedure. 

Cut the flat-topped seed-bearing clusters when they have turned brown but before seeds have "shattered" or fallen. Place clusters on muslin-covered screening trays (to prevent loss of seeds). and dry three to four hours of 90° to 100°F. in the oven or several days at lower outside temperatures. When dried, rub the clusters between the palms to separate seeds. Well-dried seeds can be stored in fruit jars or other moisture-proof containers, and will keep well for years. Only the fresh leaves of dill are used for seasoning. but the seed-bearing clusters are used either fresh or dried. Harvest the clusters when seeds are plump and firm, but before they have become brown. Clean and dry as described above. 

How many herbs should you grow? The number varies and the choice is based on your individual needs. Which herbs? These are my favorites:

ANISE (Pimpinella anisum). An annual, this herb is one of the most ancient of seasonings. Its leaves add a dimension of taste to salads and the seeds are excellent in pastries and with cheeses.

BORAGE ( Borago officinalis). An annual, borage was first introduced in wine as a flavoring. A beautiful herb, its gray-green leaves are the background for lively blue flowers. Try it in salads and summer drinks.

BASIL (Ocimum basilicum ). An annual and one of Italy's favorite herbs. Widely used in cooking and popular in soups, salads, meats and sauces, drinks and ragouts. Cut basil often, for frequent cutting increases growth.

BAY (Laurus nobilis or Umbelluraria ealifornia). A tree, commonly the European Bay or California laurel. The dried leaves are widely used in seasoning. Its effects are both enjoyable and noticeable. When a recipe calls for "one or two leaves", restrain yourself. Use one-quarter to one-half leaf.

BURNET (Sanguisorba minor). A perennial and seldom used herb, burnet is ideal in salads. Its tender shoots have a faint taste of cucumber and can be used with sandwiches and cheeses. If you have never tried burnet, do so this year.

CARAWAY (Carum earvi). A biennial used for its seeds, a favorite in cookies, cakes and breads. Try it in cooking as well. Occasionally, the fresh plumy tips are nice in salads.

CELERY (Apium graveolens). A biennial; leaf celery is unknown as a seasoning in parts of the U.S. and yet the dried tips are excellent. The seeds, too, are used in, many dishes.

CHERVIL ( Anthriseus eerefolium). An annual and a favorite with salad lovers. One of the famous fines herbes, it is used with other herbs in many famous dishes. Chervil can be used alone in salads, soups and egg dishes.

CHIVES (Allium Schoenoprasum). A perennial, chives is the "gentle-tasting" onion used in salads and cooked dishes. If one seasoning could be said to he the backbone of cookery, that herb may well be chives. The plants are hardy and like to be cut. Try them with omelets, soups, potatoes and many other dishes.

CORIANDER (Coriandrum sativum).. An annual, originally one of the bitter herbs eaten with the Passover. It is a popular ingredient in curry powder and is often used in Mexican foods. Used sparingly, coriander is excellent in a range of foods from avocado to tomato sauce. Try it with meats.

CUMIN (Cuminum eyminum). An annual and another ingredient in curry powder. Also used in Mexican cooking, especially meat and bean dishes. Try it with sauerkraut.

DILL (Anethum gravoelens). An annual most frequently used in the making of pickles. Other uses include: eggs, fish, salads, meats, cheeses, and even beans and potatoes.

FENNEL (Foeniculum offieinalis). An annual. Try fennel leaves with salads and use the seeds with fruit and fish dishes.

MARJORAM (Origanum majorana), sweet marjoram. One of the most important of kitchen herbs, it is ideal for sauces, soups, salads and meats. A mainstay in French and Italian cooking and used as a seasoning in stuffings, sausage and with fish. It is a lovely plant with rich, fragrant leaves. The flowers develop from knots on the stems.

MINT (Mentha spieata). A perennial, also called spearmint, it is used in a variety of cooking from meats to the highly touted Kentucky Mint Julep. Also ideal in cheeses, salads and soups.

OREGANO (Oreganum vulgare, wild marjoram ). An annual in some countries, a perennial in others, and occasionally interchanged with marjoram. Ideal by itself in a wide range of dishes from Italian sauces to fresh mushrooms. Try Oregano with cheeses and salads.

PARSLEY (Petroselinum sativum ). A biennial used by more restaurants than any other herb (and uneaten by more patrons). Try it in salads, soups and stews and with a variety of meat dishes. It can be used cooked or fresh as a garnish.

ROSEMARY (Rosmarinus offieinalis). A perennial and another basic favorite. It is used in a hundred ways with meat, fish, poultry and in sauces and salads. Many French and Italian recipes call for the herb. If you can only grow six or seven herbs, make rosemary one.

SAGE (Salvia officinalis). A perennial and one of the hardiest of garden plants. It can be used dried or fresh and fresh sage is the best. use in dishes as varied as beans and wildfowl—although not recommended for domestic birds, such as chicken or turkey (less pungent herbs are better).

SAVORY (Satoreia hortensiii—Stammer savory and Satureia Montana—Winter savory). Summer savory, an annual, is popular throughout Europe. Germans use it in bean dishes and the English rely on it for chicken and turkey. Other uses include pork, salads, and with vegetables such as peas. Winter savory, a perennial, is used in similar ways and can be interchanged with its more pungent cousin.

TARRAGON ( Artemisia draeunculus ). A perennial and one of the most popular and most often used of all herbs. It is generally used dried but is excellent when fresh. Try it in salads. dressings, fish, meat and poultry dishes. Sophisticated cooks also use it with vegetable dishes, such as spinach and col-lards. Can be added to vinegar to make the famous Tarragon Vinegar.

THYME (Thymus vulgaris). A perennial and again one of the most popular of herbs. There are several varieties, such as lemon, caraway and orange thyme, but the common thyme is most generally used. Try it with soups, salads and all manner of meats, including chicken and rabbit. Ideal with tomato and tomato dishes.

Tips On Camping

Keep The Fire Burning

Most fires, when burning steadily, will resist all but the heaviest rain. Even so, you can rig a tarp shelter to keep rain off a small fire as well as yourself. If you are caught in a heavy rain without shelter, a hollow log may help out. Try to find a short, rotten section of birch and knock out the loose pulp to form a hollow tube about a foot long and as near 8 in. diameter as possible. Place it on the ground and start a fire inside. Once this burns through the bark, it usually has enough start to keep burning. 

Outwitting Insects

Mosquitoes, black flies, and all their brethren can make life pretty miserable for the most durable camper. A good dousing with insect repellent before crawling into bed is, at best, haphazard. Even if you don't wake up covered with bites, you'll spend uncomfortable nights with these pests buzzing around your head. If you sleep with covers tight around your neck, you may get by with a mosquito hood, which is a hat with a mosquito net bag over it and a drawstring to pull the net tight. This is inexpensive and readily available at sporting goods stores. Better yet, though, is a mosquito bar, which is a big box made of mosquito netting. When you suspend it over your bed and tuck the bottom underneath your sleeping bag. It gives excellent protection. It's inexpensive and the next best thing to an insect-proof tent.

 Incidentally, make it a point to avoid abandoned buildings you may find in the fringe wilderness areas. The idea of a solid roof over your head may seem pleasant but, more often than not, when the former residents moved out, the bugs moved in. 

Camp Kitchenware

To enjoy any camping trip, you'll need to eat well and be able to prepare food without undue fuss. Basic tool is the frying pan, Ideally made of stamped steel in about 12-in. diameter. Aluminum is hard to clean since food sticks to the bottom after its use over a wood fire. Cast iron pans are much too heavy. A high steep side is a must, since the pan will often be supported over a fire at an uneven angle. 

Plan Ahead When Tent Touring

Don't plan to drive so far each day that you have only one place in mind for an over-night stop. Check each area for possible alternatives in case one or more of the state parks or other campgrounds are full. Since campgrounds are open on a first-come-first-served basis, you will not he able to make reservations. 

Packing Wet Gear

This isn't a good idea since wet gear packed away for any length of time will result in starting mildew. The material will naturally be ventilated each time you pitch camp. but it's a good idea to take a couple hours' break as soon as you can and let the sun dry out your gear. Canvas should never be put into storage even if it is the slightest bit damp. 

Campfires

On a rainy day, don't take the time and effort to chop the heartwood out of old stumps or stomp around in the mud looking for canoe birch bark. Instead, carry fire starters, dry newspaper and a large supply of dry wood. 

Slacking Guys

One thing you should keep in mind is that canvas and ropes grow taut when wet, Result? The stakes can pull out and your tent can collapse. Or, if it hap-pens to be well secured, the seams may tear out. If you're pretty sure it's going to rain, you'd better take some precautions. Loosen all guy ropes and adjust poles. Use springs or rubber strips from inner tubes between guy rope and tent stake to avoid making adjustments. 

For the Camp Kitchen

To protect the stove and other kitchen items, stretch a transparent plastic sheet over these items. The utensils will he protected and you'll be able to see where everything is. Be sure and weight clown the sheet against the wind. Remember to give special attention to your stove. Once burners get wet, it's a hard chore to get them started again. Keep the stove lid closed to protect against rain and dew. 

The Care of Tents

A first quality tent is normally capable of giving good service year after year, even for a lifetime, if given a measure of care. One of the surest ways of having trouble with any tent is to bring it in from a trip damp or dirty, toss it into a closet or basement and forget it until time for that next year's outing. Your tent should be kept as clean as possible while being used and nothing can help accomplish this better than the use of mats just outside the door and "throw rugs" inside on the floor. A simple brushing off when breaking camp each day will also remove accumulated dirt and grass. 

A tent should never be left rolled up while wet for any longer than is absolutely necessary, but day to day rolling and moving from one campground to another should bring about no mildewing or rotting. Just see to it that the tent is thoroughly dry before storing for long periods of time. If your tent does not have "spring loaded" poles to compensate for shrinkage during periods of rain, it is always a good idea to loosen the entire framework during these wet times for the purpose of preventing rips or tears in the fabric. Should you rip or tear the tent in any way, it is important that it be repaired as soon as possible, thereby preventing further damage which could be much more serious and even more expensive. 

When putting any tent away for the season, it is advisable to roll it loosely rather than too tight as this will allow good ventilation throughout the fabric. Damp or exceptionally dry locations should be avoided, with normal room conditions usually proving best for the storing of tents. Also avoid extreme temperatures.

Should you have a treated type tent or one of the lighter weight "bone drys," it may become necessary to apply some form of waterproofing agent from time to time and there are two ways to go about this. The simplest method is through the use of a silicone spray, and this normally does the job with much less work and mess. The other method is through the use of a heavier, messier paint on solution and regardless of the method used, ample time should be allowed for total drying before stowing the tent away or before using it in the field. Both methods will cost about the same. 

About the Camper's Car

Fresh highway tar is a common thorn in the sides of most campers who tow utility or camp trailers, but there is a way to make this a little less painful. If, when coming to a freshly oiled stretch, you will take a minute or two to "paint" the front section of the trailer with grease, the tar will come off with hot, soapy water. A final scrubbing with a rag soaked in one of the carbonated "colas" will remove all signs of the grease. 

Around Camp

Ever feel guilty when the ranger or friends drop by for a campsite visit? Why not rinse out a couple of those empty tin cans, fill with sand or dirt and keep them around for ashtrays? Those "grounded" cigarette stubs stand out in campground photos, too. 

Dry firewood can always be a problem following a rain, but in most instances, small dry twigs may be found lying on the under-side of large, fallen trees. This is also true of the downwind side of large upright stumps or tree trunks, too. Since better drainage prevails, small twigs found along graveled drives and paths will normally have had a better chance for drying out. Once you have enough small, dry pieces and get them started, the larger sticks should dry from the heat and burn readily enough. Large dead logs will often yield dry wood when cut into with an axe, but shy away from green wood, dry or not. Remember that wet, dead wood will burn better than dry, green limbs and the cutting of any living tree is strictly frowned upon by state and federal agencies. 

When camping with limited water available, remember that water drained from the ice chest is always satisfactory for dishes, bathing and similar uses, but is generally unsuitable for drinking. 

About Buckets

The bucket, preferably galvanized and holding about two gallons, is useful for a number of reasons and, oddly enough, is required of national forest users in at least two western states. 

For Perfect Packing

First, take a good look around and make a list of the various pieces of camp equipment containing "wasted space" within themselves, and then a companion list of the smaller objects capable of fitting inside the larger space wasters. 

The camp stove, for instance, normally has plenty of room for salt and pepper shakers. dish towels, cups, silverware, a small pot.and even small jars of coffee and sugar. Too, by having the stove so packed, stopping along the highway during the day to make a quick shot of coffee is really a snap. All you need then is the water jug. 

As coffee jars, sugar cans and oatmeal boxes begin to empty, other objects may be tossed in on top of the remaining goodies providing that spilling and mixing is impossible. Putting the mustard jar in on top of instant coffee, or the peanut butter jar in with sugar should never cause a problem. 

For the tidy type, the plastic waste basket could be nested inside the two gallon bucket, and then the lantern or a similar round object crammed into the basket. Table cloths, towels or such poked down around the lantern prevent jostling and likewise solves just one more question of space. 

Boots are usually good suitcases, regardless of size, and will hold everything from spare socks to toilet articles . . . maybe both. Square boxes housing round items always offer empty corners handy for hiding long, slim tools, extra batteries, flashlights, etc. 

Air Mattress Storage

 If you're going to store your air mattress for the season, be sure and inflate it first. Also. stand it upright In a cool, dry place. If there's not enough space for upright storage, roll the mattress for storing instead of folding it. You'll find that folding causes creases and from the creases, there may result cracks. This care will keep it in good condition. 

Camping Equipment

Blade Sheath

A flattened tin can will serve as a sheath for your hatchet or axe blade. Choose a can of less diameter than the width of the blade. Remove both ends and step on the can to flatten it. Push the blade inside and it will stay put. 

Bottled Ice

To avoid loading your camp ice box with ice cubes, clean out a milk carton, fill with water, and freeze in your refrigerator at home. You'll find that the cartons will occupy less space than ice cubes and will provide fresh drinking water. 

Tent Pocket

A pocket on the wall of your tent is convenient for holding tissues, matches or other small items you may want to reach for at night. You can make one by attaching three sides of a 5x7-in. piece of canvas to the side wall with strips of press-on mending tape in a matching color. If the free edge or opening of the pocket is liable to ravel, cover it with a strip of tape folded lengthwise. 

Disposable Dog Dish

For feeding and watering your dog on a camping trip, cut a 1/2-gallon milk carton lengthwise with a sharp knife or razor blade. Cut through the front and both ends. Open like a hook into a double dish. The uncut back will serve as a hinge. When breaking camp, toss the improvised dish on the tire. 

Fast Fire Starter

Corncobs broken in half and soaked in hot paraffin make a fine fire starter. Only one or two pieces are needed and they can be stored compactly and cleanly in a paper bag. When heating the paraffin, avoid an open flame, it's best to melt the wax in a pan several inches deep, on an electric hotplate, outdoors. 

First Aid

If you don't like the inconvenience of carrying a bottle of antiseptic along when you go traveling or camping, fill a new, inexpensive fountain pen with the medicine. It is a perfect airtight container that permits the medicine to be applied both easily and quickly. 

Packing Shakers

Outdoor men on short trips will find it convenient to use dental floss tubes to carry a small quantity of salt. These tubes already have two holes in the caps and a disc of wax paper under the head keeps the salt from spilling out while packing. Since the tubes are transparent plastic, you can easily determine when they need refilling, and they won't break. 

Campfire Kindler

Starting a campfire with wet kindling is much easier with this fire lighter and it fits in one of the shell loops of your hunting coat. Hold a piece of heavy cotton twine upright in an empty shotgun shell and pour wax around it to expose a little of the wax. You can also use the lighter as an emergency candle, as the brass end of the shell, is a secure base. 

Spare Tire Lifesaver

Even if you are a non-swimmer, you can provide a life preserver in an emergency. if your car or truck is nearby. The spare tire is almost always inflated, and takes only a few turns of a wing nut to loosen. In case of an emergency, roll or throw the tire into the water. One tire is capable of holding up two or three persons. 

Self-Refrigerated Drinks

Cans of orange juice and other frozen concentrates may be carried to camp and will remain cold a long time if placed in a paper bag containing rock wool insulation. Pack the wool around the cans so they are completely isolated. Rock wool or a similar type of insulation is usually left over after a home insulation job and in this way can be put to good use. 

Waterproof Flashlight

Strips of masking tape applied over the closures at each end of a flashlight will keep out moisture when it is stored. Also cover the on-off switch. The tape can he easily removed when the flashlight is to be used. 

Gathering Firewood

When firewood is in short supply on the ground, tie a weight on a lariat size rope and toss it over high, dry, and dead tree branches. By pulling on both ends, you can dislodge them. Cut them to the appropriate size. 

After It Rains

One of these days, you might just get caught with your tent flap up during a sudden thunder shower. It happens to the best of campers and they, probably better than anyone, know the soggy discomfort of crawling into a damp sleeping bag.